Leitz Rudesheimer Berg Schlossberg Alte Reben Riesling, Rheingau, Germany

雷茨呂德斯海姆堡施洛斯伯格老藤雷司令干白葡萄酒

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Intense yellow in color, the 2007 Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Alte Reben shows a beautifully matured, rich and intense yet pure, fresh and lovely herbal-flavored bouquet; there are ripe fruits and minty flavors of caramelized white fruit aromas. The attack on the palate is stunningly piquant and fresh, the mid palate highly complex and structured yet pure; the finish is piquant, tannic and stimulatingly salty. This eight-year-old wine is still very young and displays a lemon-fresh vibrancy, as well as lemon juice texture on the palate. This is a lovely wine that is still at the beginning of its grown-up phase. Great food wine.

The Leitz 2007 Rudesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Alte Reben smells of ripe peach; lemon zest; toasted hickory and almond; and wood smoke. Palate-saturating and expansive, palpably extract-rich but not at all heavy (and with only 12.3% alcohol), it carries salt, peach kernel, coffee, and a smoky, flinty pungency into its long, reverberating finish. Here is another Leitz cru that should be worth following for at least 10-12 years. Leitz began picking already on September 20, a day earlier than in 2006, but he is the first to admit that after the penury of its predecessor, the higher yields of vintage 2007 were welcome, and to admit as well, that top quality was achieved at the high-volume end of his portfolio only thanks to the aberently long ripening season. (For notes on Leitz's least-expensive, highest-volume, and highly-successful 2007 wines, consult issue 178.) -We were the first to pick and the last, too,- he insists. -I place great importance on that. As far as I'm concerned it's a great reward of global warming that we don't have to wait, like we used to, until October 10 to start harvesting, knowing that you probably had to get finished within 20 days. The climate has helped us to be able to play with the dates of picking- for any given parcel or to essay any given style. Speaking of style, Leitz was phenomenally successful this year in both dry and sweet formats, but essayed just two nobly sweet wines. The fate of an Auslese from the Berg Roseneck with which he expressed dissatisfaction had not yet been determined when I last visited, and a December 6 -Nikolauswein- from the Klosterlay (-we were planning to make Eiswein but lost our nerve,- comments Leitz) was still fermenting.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300