Richer, riper and bigger than in the past, the usual green apple flavors veer into well-ripened pears and even tropical fruits, with spicy oak all over the place. Dry and sleek in texture, the kind of wine that despite its opulence feels ultra-clean through the finish. Good for Rochioli for leaving all these fresh, young acids. ——S.H.(7/1/2003)—— 93