The 2004 Salice Salentino Riserva (85% Negroamaro, 15% Malvasia Nera) possesses textbook aromas of this quirky Puglian variety in its notes of sweet, perfumed herbs and black cherries. This generous, inviting wine offers incredible quality for the money, not to mention the wine is plain delicious to drink. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2011. Readers who want to discover the unique qualities of Puglia’s indigenous varieties will find much to admire in this set of wines. The entry-level bottlings in particular deliver incredible quality for the money. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

Here’s a pretty Riserva Salice Salentino (a blend of Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera) with vibrant tones of spice and mature fruit. The wine’s flavors are chewy and dense and fuel the wine’s lush texture.——M.L.(3/1/2009)—— 87