The 2005 Morey-St.-Denis Les Cheneverys displays a slightly sweet-sour combination of stewed rhubarb and blackberry fruit, an overtly chalky mineral character, a hefty dose of medium-grip tannins, and a finish with vigorous fruit character, marrowy meatiness and pungent pepper and spices. I am reasonably confident that this impressively dense and incipiently complex wine simply needs time to recover from bottling. The tannins, though, will remain less refined than those of the Charmes.
Virgile Lignier elected not to filter his 2005s, but I suspected that a couple of them were suffering slightly from their very recent bottling.
Also recommended: 2005 Bourgogne ($25.00; 86), 2005 Chambolle-Musigny ($50.00;86+?), 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin ($53.00; 86+?).
Various Importers. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet; fax 011- 333-80-24-29-70.
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