Cantina del Notaio’s 2008 L’Autentica is a late-harvest Moscato/Malvasia blend from the slopes of the Vulture. Orange peel, smoke, mint, mulling spices and nectarine add an exotic flair. The 2008 is rich and deeply resonant, with plenty of depth, but no excess heaviness. This harmonious dessert wine is best enjoyed over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2016. Cantina del Notaio has made a name for itself with rich, textured wines that bear the signature of longtime winemaker Luigi Moio, one of the most celebrated and influential oenologists in southern Italy. Today’s wines are a bit more restrained than they have been in the past, a positive development given that this fruit really needs little to shine. All of the wines are named after stages in the Italian legal process. Importer: Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300