From a steep, high-altitude parcel just across the communal line in Brochon from Gevrey’s Les Evocelle, Roty’s 2005 Cote de Nuits Villages offers strikingly intense aromas and persistent flavors of bitter-sweet cassis and blackberry, with bright freshness and pronounced skin character yet creaminess of texture and underlying meatiness. This should develop nicely over a 5-7 year period. Philippe Roty and his brother have matters well in hand and are on their way to bottling (as always here, unfiltered) a superb collection of 2005s. That said, this won’t even begin happening until late Spring and some wines may not be bottled until year’s end. (Wines followed above by the initials P.R. are from Philippe’s vines and will be labeled with his name.) Prolonged skin contact and gentle but relentless extraction are the practice here, and in 2005 that has made for Pinots of almost shockingly deep color, abundant and firm but fine tannins, and terrific overall intensity.Also recommended: 2005 Marsannay (85-86+?).Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173.