The 1998 Cotes du Rhone Cuvee Romaine emerges from the Bernard family that owns the wonderful country restaurant, Les Florets, in the old Roman village of Gigondas. This wine (3,000 cases), a special blend selected by Eric Solomon, is unquestionably one of the finest Cotes du Rhones I have tasted. A dark ruby color is followed by a huge, expressive nose of pepper, kirsch liqueur, and spice. There are no hard edges in the mouth, just glycerin, fat, and abundant cherry fruit infused with the myriad scents of the Mediterranean region. This is a full-bodied, supple-textured, glorious effort to drink over the next 3-4 years. It is also a fabulous value to purchase by the case! ERIC SOLOMON, EUROPEAN CELLARS, 236 West 27 St., Room 801, New York, NY 10001; tel. (212) 924-4949; fax (212) 924-0567