Smoky and alkaline aromas in the nose of Dirlers' 2007 Pinot Gris Schimberg - along with peach, gooseberry, parsnip, sage, and lemon zest - add up to an especially pungent, slightly reductive display. Lean and bright - more Sauvignon- or Riesling- than Pinot Gris-like - this is invigoratingly saline and pungently smoky and nutty in finish. Terroirists will opine it's not just the vintage but the schist that conduces to this striking display. Follow this for a dozen or more years and I guarantee it will not require rewinding. Jean-Pierre Dirler was another of those growers to express delight at the 2007 vintage with its wide window of harvest opportunities, but to have sold off or declassified much of his family's production in 2006. It bears repeating that this estate's international profile is not nearly as high as is the quality of wine that have issued from it routinely since at least the mid-1980s, when I first visited here. I did not, unfortunately, have chance to taste quite the entire 2007 Dirler-Cade collection, and canvassed only a small selection of their in any event diminished number of 2006s.Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185