Raul Perez La Vizcaina La del Vivo, Bierzo, Spain

勞爾·佩雷斯酒莊維茲卡伊納系列維沃白葡萄酒

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The 2011 La Vizcaina La del Vivo is made with Dona Blanca grapes as well as a little Palomino and Godello intermixed with the reds in the La Poulosa zone. The soils are predominantly clay, in a warm part of the village, which is harvested early. (Cova de La Raposa and El Vivo are even warmer). The wine shows a straw color, with some apple notes and a fresh mouth, medium to light body, with some salinity. An honest, straight white. Drink 2013-2015. I had the chance to spend a few hours with Raul Perez trying to understand his wines for you, as he keeps changing (almost) everything (nearly) every time you talk to him. Well, I might be exaggerating a bit, but not much. Raul Perez now has two separate wineries in Bierzo, one in Salas de los Barrios, where the Ultreia wines are produced, called Bodegas y Vinedos Raul Perez, and a new one in Valtuille de Abajo, called La Vizcaina de Vinos, but I’m including them all here in an effort to simplify things. All the wines are made with full clusters, and they do not use temperature control, for either the whites or reds. They are looking for ways of reducing alcohol levels, and reducing maceration time. Upbringing of the wines is exclusively in used barrels for one year. You might wonder how they do it; of course they need to break the new barrels, but they are only used for the higher-volume and the entry-level wine, Ultreia St Jacques. All the grapes come from different zones within the village of Valtuille de Abajo, where he was born in 1972. He shows the zone’s names on the labels, hoping they will get known and that some other producers will follow his example in the future and use those names on their labels, following the Burgundian model. He showed me a cadastral map of the village showing all the zones, plots and different ownership, which would be very familiar to those knowledgeable about the Cote d’Or. Maybe one day wine books will talk about La Poulosa, Rapolao, Cova de la Raposa and so on. Overall, this is a superb collection of terroirs within the village of Valtuille de Abajo. As I said, maybe one day these vineyards will be bottled by other producers, and hopefully followed and studied like the vineyards in the villages of Cote de Nuits! Imported by Patrick Mata, Ole Imports, New Rochelle, NY; tel. (914) 740-4724; www.oleimports.com