I tasted six dry Tokay-Pinot Gris offerings from Zind-Humbrecht and one Vendange Tardive. As the enthusiastic notes that follow reveal, it is a toss up as to whether Riesling or Pinot Gris was the more successful varietal in 1995. I found the 1995 Tokay-Pinot Gris Clos Windsbuhl to be classic. Totally dry, this medium gold-colored wine exhibits an intriguing nose of minerals, vanilla (not from new oak), subtle floral scents, and plenty of steely, buttery fruit. Fabulous on the palate, this full-bodied, intensely-concentrated, brilliantly delineated wine should be cellared for 2-4 years. It possesses remarkable length (approximately 40+ seconds). The Zind-Humbrecht 1995s possess approximately 10% higher acidity than the crisp, high acid 1994s, largely because September was a very cool month. There was no need to chaptalize any of the ZH wines, and extremely long fermentations resulted in high alcohol.The reviews in this segment are from a memorable tasting held in April, 1997.Importers: Wine Markets International, Woodbury, NY; tel. (516) 364-1850, and Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524

Threads of gold can be discerned in the straw color of the intensely spicy, botrytis-laden 1995 Pinot Gris Clos Windsbuhl. Presently remaining youthfully ungenerous, this wine has a tightly wound concentrated core of fruit. Precise, well-balanced, and possessing an extensive finish, it is a candidate for 5-6 years of cellaring. Drink it between 2005 and 2014.