A sweaty smell opens the wine, followed with light strawberry and leafy herb notes. In the mouth the wine is thin and tart, with a hard, tannic finish. There isn’t any stuffing, and it lacks the elegance and precision that could take the place of mere power. What’s left is leafy, herbal and astringent, but charmless. Two bottles tasted.——P.G.(4/1/2008)—— 83
