The distinctive expression of things mineral in Neumayer’s 2010 Gruner Veltliner Engelreich takes the form a Chablis-like amalgam of crushed stone, alkalinity, and salted vegetable and chicken stock. Bittersweet floral nuances waft discreetly but intriguingly from the glass as this opens up. A lush texture and sweetly ripe suggestion of honeydew melon gain counterpoint from the saline, stony undertone and lemon-tinged finishing note. This ought to be worth following for a decade. Ludwig Neumayer de-acidified at the lower end of his portfolio, especially in Riesling, but the results retain plenty of pep and incisive refreshment. Given the high extract that resulted from lots of rain, he notes, there was lots of buffering for the acids, and the thick skins and paucity of juice also had an ameliorative effect on acidity, effectively enhancing skin contact even in those grapes that were almost immediately pressed. “In fact,” notes Neumayer, “the material was so dense that you could only press very slowly.” Although his top Rieslings fermented through February, like the rest of this collection they were bottled already in April.Importer: Winemonger, Los Angeles, CA www.winemonger.com