The ambitious 1993 Chardonnay Reserve from Napa Valley reveals well-integrated, smoky oak, rich, full-bodied, honeyed tropical fruit flavors, loads of glycerin, a big mouthfeel, and plenty of flesh and alcohol in the surprisingly long finish. It is a steal at $13, but be sure and drink it over the next 18 months.The folks at Napa Ridge are apparently incapable of making anything but delicious wines at modest prices. Kudos to winemaker David Schlottman for consistently turning out reasonably priced, delicious wines.Tel. (707) 963-7115 (Beringer)