Domaine Albert Boxler Muscat d'Alsace Brand

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：1881

Boxler’s 2008 Muscat d’Alsace Brand – this year comprising nearly one-half small-berried Alsace Muscat – displays an almost dizzying aromatic amalgam of apricot and its kernel; coffee; and a greenhouse-like profusion of leafing and flowering things including bergamot, sage flower, and orange blossom. A subtle but inescapable sense of sweetness manages to beautifully support a lusciously juicy abundance of apricot, white peach and Persian melon on a palate suffused with mouthwatering salinity and underlain by a sense of stone that sets up a Riesling-like call-and-response with fruit, herbs, and flowers. This is one of those rare examples of Alsace Muscat that unites yet transcends its classic virtues, offering the dynamic complexity and minerality of a great Riesling, with comparability to reflect the character of a great site. It will be worth following for at least 12-15 years, though needless to say, don’t miss out on delighting in some young. If you want to comprehend the character of Jean Boxler relates that in 2009 he picked some parcels of young wines early due to stress, then sold off the juice; and any under 15 years’ age he didn’t even bother to pick. Eventually, when he harvested his older vines and best sites, the sugar levels were the same – but not the flavors. He deftly charted a course with most of the resulting wines between alcohol and residual sugar, but to the extent it was unavoidable, sinned on the side of sweetness. From 2008, almost predictably given the track record at this address, Boxler rendered sharply focused, minerally complex, yet seductively fruit-filled wines that should prove excellent both as keepers and as partners with cuisine. Boxler compares these wines with his 2002s and finds then “definitely more interesting than the 2001s.” While most of the 2008s finished fermenting already by Christmas – which is par for the course chez Boxler – he points out that several of the extraordinary wines from the Brand lingered into spring. (For some detail on among other things Boxler’s different Riesling parcels, see my report in issue 188.)Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185