The 2009 Chardonnay Sierra Mar (from a Wente clone) is a superb debut vintage. For starters, the wine was aged in 70% new oak, which the fruit seems to be able to handle. The Sierra Mar shows gorgeous varietal fruit on the tropical side of the spectrum, but with more than enough minerality to provide focus and balance. All of the aromas and flavors build beautifully towards a round, creamy finish in this highly expressive, generous Chardonnay. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2019. This is a set of sublime, elegant wines from Gary and Rosella Franscioni at Roar. The Franscionis own a number of vineyards, including Rosella’s, Sierra Mar and Garys’ (with the Pisoni family), all in the Santa Lucia Highlands. In addition to making their own wines, the Franscionis also sell fruit to a number of small, artisanal wineries. The Franscioni’s latest project is Sierra Mar, a dramatic hillside vineyard with multiple exposures and one isolated, striking plot that looks like a setting for an opening scene in a James Bond movie.Tel. (831) 675-1681; www.roarwines.com