The stunning 2008 Ontogeny Proprietary Red (a blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot) boasts an opaque purple color along with notes of kirsch, blueberries, boysenberries, mocha and subtle smoke. Expansive on the palate as well as opulent and fleshy with tremendous fruit, depth and richness, there is some tannin lurking in the background, but it is largely concealed by the luxurious fruit component. Already showy and complex, this stunning red can be drunk over the next decade. One of the major fruit sources for Bevan has been the Showket Vineyard in Napa, which was recently sold to Peter Michael. Although last year I gave superb reviews to two of Bevan Cellars’ wines, this year’s extensive portfolio was one of the revelations of my tastings. A small artisanal operation in Santa Rosa run by Russell Bevan and his partner, Victoria Descrescenco, Bevan Cellars has assembled a stunning line-up of wines. I think the tasting notes say it all, but I can’t recommend this up-and-coming producer’s wines highly enough.Tel. (707) 235-3062; www.bevancellars.com