The 2005 St. Laurent Haidegrund, from small Austrian oak barrels (around one-third of which are new) smells of pork cracklings, ripe cherries, and a hint of game. In the mouth, this is beautifully juicy, with pure sweet fruit allied to Burgundian nuances of leather and meat. When it’s bottled, place this in a blind line-up of Old and New World Pinot Noirs and watch the reactions! The balance, clarity, and intensity are truly impressive, as the wine’s ability to withstand the wood, and more complexity should come with further elevage. Also recommended: 2005 Riesling Urgestein ($23.00; 86), 2004 Riesling Tradition ($41.00; 86+?), 2004 St. Laurent Klassik (not available; 86+?).Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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