The Brocards’ steep-slope 2008 Chablis Vau de Vey smells of buddleia, orange blossom, and fresh lime; offers an especially bright, savory and energetic palate performance that will keep you salivating and on the edge of your seat; and pours forth invigoratingly tart, salt- and chalk-encrusted lime, white currant, and grapefruit in a vibrantly clinging finish. This south-east exposed site is a “wind trough” in Julien Brocard’s words that traps heat yet enjoys almost continual cooling breezes, making for a unique sort of concentration. This should perform impressively for another 6-8 years.
Enologist Nadine Gublin (also of Domaine Jacques Prieur) headed-up the Brocards’ 2008 efforts from start to finish, including a harvest that extended well into October, while Julien Brocard continues to up the percentage of acreage farmed biodynamically at this enormous property. (Tiny lady bugs and moons are scattered discreetly across the labels of those Brocard wines that issue from “bio” vineyards.) Due to time limitations, I did not taste the entire 2008 collection here, but every wine I tasted could be recommended and is included in this report.
Imported by: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400
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