The 2008 Ilatraia is a touch rustic in this vintage. Dark fruit, black olives, sage and rosemary are some of the nuances that flow from the glass. Today the wine is rather disjointed and stern, with little of the sunny radiance that distinguishes the finest years. That said, the wine does come together with air, which is enough reason to be cautiously optimistic about the future. Ilatraia is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Sangiovese and 10% Petit Verdot from vineyards in Maremma that spent 18 months in French oak. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2014. Importer: The Hess Collection, Napa , CA; tel. (707) 255-1144