It’s hard to imagine the subsequent vintage surpassing this purring monster, but it could and probably will. That said, the current 2000 is magnificent in its dark masculinity and layered complexity. The fruit aromas are perfect, the spice notes exotic, and overall it’s just a blast to drink. Lots of sweet oak is still front and center, so give it until 2006 for it to show even better.——M.S.(9/1/2004)—— 95
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