Guffens-Heynen Pouilly-Fuisse Tri des Hauts de Vignes, Maconnais, France

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The slate liqueur-scented 2002 Pouilly-Fuisse Tri de Hauts de Vignes is a penetrating, profound, concentrated wine. Lush, dense, and powerful, it reveals ethereal mineral, herb, and flint flavors. This extraordinary wine magnificently marries richness with precision, detail, and muscle. It is fleshy, fresh, and complex. Drink it between 2007 and 2015. Jean-Marie Guffens believes that “2002 is as good as anything we’ve ever made at the estate.” While I agree that they are magnificent, I believe his 2000s were better. Time will tell. A Peter Vezan Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42-65-42-93), importers include: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 848-8910, and a Patrick Lesec Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-44-70-62-93)