The 2006 Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling Auslese Fass 20, A.P. #19 (nicknamed “Fass 20”) comes from the upper terraces of the well-ventilated site. Honeysuckle and orange blossom float like a butterfly over the glass. Then a stinging citricity and tart purple plum are administered to the palate. A glaze of honey and a hint of creaminess signal an ennobling presence, but the tightly-knit structure and bright acidity beneath reveal the extent to which sheer dehydration got to these berries before the botrytis. Intensely dynamic and ester-rich in its finish, this is another case of capturing one’s interest by sustaining tension, and I suspect that will be the case for much of this wine’s potential 25-30 year life. The Mosel’s greatest champion of once-great but recently-neglected sites and one of German viticulture’s most tireless outside-the-box thinkers in the search for quality, Karl-Josef Loewen took extra efforts in 2006 including adding supplemental pickers who helped him harvest in only ten days. He did not begin until October 8, believing that “before then, the ripeness just wasn’t there.” Loewen is notoriously fearless when it comes to harvesting botrytis, but he tended toward more whole-cluster pressing than usual to help guard against impure elements of rot. In an exciting development, beginning this year, Loewen is taking the lead with Carl Schmitt-Wagner in farming the latter’s ancient Riesling in Longuicher Maximiner Herrenberg.Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300
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