The 1992 Pinot Noir Estate Southeast Block Reserve exhibits lavish quantities of black-cherry fruit and sweet oak in its bouquet, wonderful purity, medium to full body, fine depth, and a soft finish. If this wine had been slightly more concentrated it would have received an outstanding score. Bethel Heights excels at making stylish, seductive, richly fruity Pinot Noirs that resemble high class premier crus from the Cote de Beaune. The four fine offerings reviewed in this issue exhibit little difference in quality, although I expect the two Reserve wines to gain additional weight in the bottle. All of these wines are best consumed in their first 6-7 years of life. All are made in a seductive style that clearly demonstrates Pinot Noir's hedonistic appeal. Tel. (503) 581-2262.
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