Domaine de la Petite Mairie Bourgueil Cuvee Ronsard, Loire, France

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From the gravelly site on which his domaine is located, Petit’s 2007 Bourgueil Cuvee Ronsard – which gets extended aging in older barrels – displays less harmony or textural allure than his ostensibly lesser wine from 2008 as well as a more pronouncedly (in this instance asparagus-like vegetal streak) that some tasters may find off-putting. That said, there is an interesting abundance of sour cherry, leather, blond tobacco, and resin here, with a bright juiciness that persists into a faintly smoky and bitter finish. I would plan on drinking this wine – which will probably find some interesting applications at table – over the nextHis influential uncle and leading authority in their appellation Jean Gambier having retired, James Petit’s name is now that featured on his domaine’s labels, with “La Petite Mairie” relegated to small print as part of the estate’s address.Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

This domaine’s 2003 Bourgueil Cuvee Ronsard shows how rich Cabernet Franc from this torrid vintage can be, shows that some of them are still in the marketplace; and shows that they can be underpriced. Black raspberry, flowers and resin rise from the glass. One’s mouth is filled with bitter-sweet black-chocolate covered berries and persistent sweet flowers. And the finish, while imposingly rich, maintains berry freshness and transparency to stony, chalky mineral traces.Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990