The fresh, tasty 2008 Chardonnay Gamble Ranch is made in a slightly heavier style with the wood more noticeable. It is a bigger, although not better, Chardonnay that should drink well for 2-3 years. Bigger than life veteran winemaker, musician and general bon vivant, Ed Sbragia continues to turn out a bevy of realistically priced wines that offer great value. To add to the excitement, every one of his 2007 Cabernet Sauvignons performed better out of bottle than it did from barrel - always a sign of top winemaking and reassuring integrity. However, Sbragia, who may have the Midas touch with red varietals (particularly his beloved Zinfandel as well as Cabernet Sauvignon) also knows a thing or two about Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. 2008 is an average quality year for most Zinfandel producers, but Sbragia has transcended the vintage’s challenges. Sbragia is producing five separate Cabernet Sauvignons, and the in-the-bottle notes that follow demonstrate that each of them performed better from the bottle than it did last year from barrel.P.S. I tasted through all the Sbragia 2008 single vineyard Cabernets, including the Wall, Cimarossa, Rancho del Oso, Monte Rosso and the Dry Creek Andolsen vineyard. They all appear to be potentially 90-93 point wines. While they are not as impressive as the 2007s, if they improve as much from barrel to bottle as the 2007s, look for the 2008s to compete with that vintage.Tel. (866) 222-4342

The only Napa white is the outstanding 2007 Chardonnay Gamble Ranch. Sbragia has long demonstrated a Midas touch with Chardonnay, and this is a beauty. Aged 8 months in 100% new French oak, it reveals a subtle note of hazelnuts intermixed with orange marmalade, lemon oil, and poached pears in a full-bodied, pure, ripe style that is both powerful and elegant. Despite the 100% new oak, the wood influence is very subtle. The well-known, former winemaker at Beringer, Ed Sbragia, has fashioned these cuvees at his home estate. His Sonoma offerings will be reviewed in the February issue of The Wine Advocate. However, I have included his Cabernet Sauvignon from the Monte Rosso Vineyard as well as his Andolsen Cabernet Sauvignon from Dry Creek.Tel. (866) 222-4342

This massive, explosive Chardonnay is marked by extremely ripe pineapple, pear and peach fruit, accented with lots of sweet, caramelized oak. It’s a potent, high alcohol wine whose buttered popcorn flavors are complex by crisp acidity and minerals. A bit obvious, but a fine example of its style.——S.H.(2/1/2010)—— 92