Smoky black tea along with ripe plum and dark cherry rise from the glass of Lignier-Michelot 2006 Clos De La Roche. Persistently smoky and pungent on a firmly- yet finely-tannic but sweetly-fruited palate, and a promising interplay of carnal, chalky, herbal, and fruit elements ensues. This finishes with peppery and smoky persistence – less flatteringly than the corresponding Morey Charmes – and with a hint of heat from its nearly 14.5% (needless to say, natural) alcohol. But it is impressively complex and long, and demonstrates the potential for 2006 to foster intense and emphatic flavors without engendering any sense of weight. Beyond that, it's surprisingly like its 2005 counterpart in both its virtues and handicaps. I would plan to hold this for at least 2-3 years and then enjoy over the ensuing half dozen or so.
Virgile Lignier shared the surprise expressed by many growers at how steadily the 2006s improved in the course of their elevage. He experienced only a 15% drop in net yield vis-a-vis 2005, noting that most of the fruit he discarded was what had suffered from hail rather than succumbed to rain and rot.
Becky Wasserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet; fax 011-333-80-24-29-70
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