Despite its mere 8.5% alcohol and concomitantly high residual sugar, Josts’ 2009 Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Spatlese tastes significantly less sweet – not to mention better-balanced and more exciting – than the 11% alcohol Spatlese from their Rheingau vineyards in the Walkenberg. This is surely a tribute to the magic possessed by great, steep, slate slopes like the Hahn. Pink grapefruit, pineapple, Persian melon, and lily perfume offer heady aromatic enticement; then reunite on a luscious, glossy palate. The finish here is as effusive as the nose, and accompanied by a delightful sense of levity. I would look for at least 15 years of seductive beauty from this classic example of its site and style. For an account of some recent developments at this estate, please consult my report in issue 187. Interestingly, it was the wines from their Rheingau vineyards that suffered especially from sheer ripeness and consequent high alcohol; whereas the Josts’ best 2009s from their near-monopole Hahn escaped such difficulties and performed well indeed. Incidentally, every wine of the Josts’ save for their Grosse Gewachse – and that includes their two Pinots (which I don’t usually taste) – is now closed with screwcap, and they are among several growers I spoke with who intend to bottle their Grosse Gewachse with screwcap as well, as soon as the relevant bottles are available with the embossed Arabic numeral “1” and stylized grape cluster that identifies this category.Bill Mayer Age of Riesling Selections, Imported by Valley View Wine Sales, Glen Ellen, CA; tel. (510) 549 2444; also imported by Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389-9463
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