The 2012 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Aux Chezeaux is 100% whole cluster. It has a little more nuance and complexity compared to the Aux Charmes with dark plum and raspberry, minerals and a touch of dried rose petal. The palate is medium-bodied, very harmonious with good weight and superb mineralite. This is very focused and just glides effortlessly to its precise finish. Superb.
My second visit to see Virgile Lignier, cousin of Laurent Lignier at Domaine Hubert Lignier, did not go to plan. With the winery seemingly empty, I wondered whether he had forgotten our rendezvous. I soon discovered that the original domaine is tucked away within the village of Morey Saint Denis, and that like many, expansion has meant that they had to move elsewhere to make their wines. Virgile finally appeared driving a forklift truck loading wines destined for my homeland (incidentally I wonder how many Bordeaux proprietors have such a license?) Still, we eventually sat down to taste his 2012s that had been racked mid-September and were now in tank. I have to admit, having heard so many bon mots about Lignier-Michelot, the 2011s had not swept me off my feet back last July, though I could see the potential. However, the 2012s are a different matter and showed more complexity and nuance. The harvest here commenced a little later than others on 27 September, though not as tardy as Laurent Ponsot up the road.
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