This is a tremendous wine, and a hugely enjoyable one from the point of view of power and authority combined with balance. It just detonates on the palate with the deepest flavors of currants and black pepper, yet the huge structure of the tannins, and extreme dryness, make it elegant. Andthere’s no trace of heat. Should age gracefully for many years.——S.H.(3/1/2009)—— 94