Wieninger’s 2007 Wiener Gemischter Satz is Exhibit A in the ongoing revival of a Viennese tradition, not to mention its offering excellent value. Based on old vines field blends as well as co-fermented blocks and further blending in the cellar, Wieninger’s Gemischter wines reflect a substantial portion of Gruner Veltliner, but also a balance between the ripeness of Neuburger or Pinot Blanc and the refreshing acidity of Welschriesling or (in small amounts) Riesling. Flowers, green herbs, and a Veltliner-typical note of lentil in the nose lead to a slippery, surprisingly glycerin-rich texture, refreshing acids, and a range of herb, tea, and spice nuances that all offer counterpoint and dynamic. As in so many Wieninger wines, a saline note adds to the enticement – if not downright compulsion – to take the next sip. Enjoy it before the end of this year. Fritz Wieninger has been the prime dynamo behind whatever over-due recognition the wines of Vienna have garnered over the past decade, and I have been remiss in not visiting with him until last year – too early, unfortunately, to assess certain of the 2007s from his sprawling line-up of cuvees, so the selection below is limited wines that were bottled early, or that I had occasion to revisit. “We are warmer in Vienna than the Wachau or Kamptal,” Wieninger reminded me, “and we can’t wait to harvest our vineyards until November, unless of course we want 15 or 16% alcohol. We need lighter wines, and for that, we have to harvest much earlier – which is unfortunate at times, because aromas are significantly enhanced through later picking, a practice suited to our terroir.” Wieninger seems to have mastered the balancing act that corresponds to this paradox of optimal harvest dates. His lighter wines do not display any unripe flavors.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700
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