The 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon is wholesomely earthy and ashy on the nose, with an intoxicating array of sage, bay, bramble, tobacco and pepper berry leaf on display. Behind it all is the sonorous pulse of cassis and mulberry that throb with flavor and energy. The wine, while leafy and fine, has brilliant persistence and line; the tannins show themselves as both structuring and filagreed into the fruit. The weight here is akin to the Mataro, light without being spindly, svelte, pliable. This has a dusty finish, in the most pleasing of ways. Gorgeous wine. Exciting. 13.3% alcohol, sealed under screw cap. Note from the letter: "A straight Cabernet Sauvignon from a 1975 Central vineyard planting and 2002/2003 Eastern vineyard plantings."

One of my favorites of the current releases, the 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon features soaring aromatics of violets, sage and cassis. Hints of toast and vanilla seamlessly meld into the mix on the medium to full-bodied palate, which is silky and elegant, firm without being hard. This is an undeniably sexy Wendouree Cabernet, but it still deserves five years in the cellar and will live for another decade or more beyond that.