The 2004 Gruner Veltliner Loiser Berg Auslese smells of honey-drenched sweet peas, overripe pear, melon liqueur, herbal distillates, pineapple, and candied lime. A burst of botrytis spice sizzles and smokes for an instant as this comes onto the palate, which is then engulfed by opulent exotic fruit. Yet the wine is possessed of picture perfect clarity, proving considerably more refreshing – and its sweetness far more restrained – than its almost gaudy aromas would lead one to suspect. Sweet lime, honey, flower and herbal distillates, and tropical fruit all reprise in the long finish of this irresistible Auslese with at least 15 years of evolutionary potential.In 2006, Willi Brundlmayer really displayed mastery of his sites. While their fruits all ripened to high potential alcohol such as we have become used to in most vintages at this estate, this was by and large without detrimental effects, and the wines display clarity and refinement without heat or bitterness.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300