Picked right after the October 3rd rain, Knyphausen’s 2006 Erbacher Steinmorgen Riesling Kabinett trocken is marked by peach pit bitterness and strikingly saline, chalky minerality. Sleek and refined in texture, this admittedly relatively austere Riesling is nonetheless impressively clear and penetrating, with a satisfyingly juicy and impressively mineral finish, and should be worth following for a couple of years. The corresponding Charta Riesling – from the Erbacher Michelmark – was more concentrated and more adamantly mineral, but also stiffer and more austere, at least in its raw youth. Gerko zu Knyphausen’s sites (most near the Rhine shore) fared variably in the difficult 2006 vintage, and those he picked soonest (or from higher elevations) – even if ostensibly of lesser pedigree –turned out best.Importer: P. J. Valckenberg International, Tulsa, OK; tel. (918) 622-0424