A relatively late-harvested 2004 Erbacher Steinmorgen Riesling Spatlese exudes scents of quince, pear and fresh lemon, comes onto the palate juicy, bright and elegant but also subtly honeyed and subtly oily, with peach and quince dominating. Salts, toasted pralines and peach pits typical of this terroir are sheathed in creamy fruit and honey yet are also refreshingly laced with lemon in the finish. This wine exhibits the combination of richness and delicacy that characterizes the best 2004s, leading one to wonder whether it might not have been wise to have delayed harvesting even in some riverside vineyards that were under pressure from rot. A Beerenauslese selected at the same time, however, while rich and balanced, exhibited decidedly fugal aromas and flavors. Importer: P. J. Valckenberg International, Tulsa, OK; tel. (918) 622-0424