The 2001 Pinot Noir de la Montanya Vineyard (748 cases produced) reveals a harder edge than the South Slope, along with additional structure. Although more earthy and gutsy, it possesses good depth, plenty of peppery, berry, cherry fruit, a funky earthiness, and moderate tannin in the finish. Without the charm and suppleness of its siblings, it is a bigger, more rustic effort that should last for 3-5 years. For a winery founded only in 1996 (situated down the road from Dehlinger and Kistler), this estate is on fire, producing Burgundian-styled offerings that are the products of natural yeast fermentations, gentle handling in the cellars, with the Pinot Noirs kept on their lees, and no fining or filtration at bottling. If readers have not yet tasted the wines of Walter Hansel, they are missing some stunning wines. All of the cuvees enjoy 45-65 percent new oak.Tel. (707) 525-3614; Fax (707) 528-2415