Fattoria Viticcio Beatrice Riserva Chianti Classico DOCG, Tuscany, Italy

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The 2009 Chianti Classico Riserva Beatrice emerges from the glass with dark red cherries, sweet herbs, licorice and tobacco. The Beatrice is 95% Sangiovese and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, which gives the wine much of its tannic spine and overall structure. The Beatrice is a bigger wine than the straight Riserva, but it isn’t appreciably more complex. If anything, I have a slight preference for the straight Riserva because of its sheer drinkability. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2021. Importer: Massanois Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 470-6769

Viticcio is not one of the better known producers of Chianti Classico, but the wines have been first rate ever since the 1985 vintage when Vittorio Fiore was in charge of the winemaking. Gabriella Tani is now the consulting oenologist and the wines are as good as ever, as evidenced by the 2001 Chianti Classico Riserva Beatrice, Sangiovese with a small percentage of Bordeaux grapes, ripe and spicy with aromas of red and black currants, cloves, and sandalwood, fresh and forceful flavors and a sizeable body. Drink: 2006-2014. Importer: Classic Wine Imports, West Roxbury, MA; tel. (800) 362-4429