With 19% Cabernet Sauvignon, this is a deeply flavored, youthful wine, precocious and sharp with acidity, and fresh as newly crushed grapes. The dominant fruits are blackberries and plums, with a hint of bitter chocolate. The tannins are soft and creamy. It’s a bit rough around the edges but is well made and gets the job done. ——S.H.(2/1/2001)—— 83