The Villa Ponciago 2009 Beaujolais-Villages serves as a reminder that the Henriot family conspicuously fails to rule out the possibility that in future additional crus might also be added to their Beaujolais acreage and line-up. This is a most serious – some may say “too serious” – wine for its modest, ubiquitous appellation, deeply colored; redolent of black fruits but with no superficial sense of sweetness; and firm of feel as well as downright dense. Hints of resin, salted marrow, and charred red meat add interest to a modestly persistent finish. I would expect this to be worth following for at least another 18-24 months. The Henriot family acquired the Chateau de Poncie with its 120 vineyard acres (encompassing 214 parcels!) in 2008, but the first commercial releases came last year from the 2009 vintage, and labeled with an allusion to the alleged name of this property in late Roman times (though it began its known life as a wine estate when the Abbey of Cluny was granted it in 949). Given the evolution of Bouchard Pere et Fils and William Fevre under Henriot ownership – not to mention the fact that this estate incorporates some of the traditionally highest-rated vineyard sites in Beaujolais – great expectations will be riding on these wines, and the early results are already impressive. The new team – led by Thomas Henriot and cellarmaster Frederic Weber – are vinifying in an essentially Burgundian fashion, aging the wines in older barriques and a few new demi-muids. Since – due to my own negligence – I did not visit these cellars, I missed out on tasting one of the 2010s that had not yet been bottled as of this summer.Importer: Henriot, Inc, New York, NY; tel. (212) 605-6706
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