Verget's Grand Cru 1992 Le Montrachet is superb, with layers of rich fruit, a compelling mineral and wet stone fragrance allied to smoky, toasty new oak, and tons of fruit. Drink this full-bodied, rich wine over the next 12-15 years. Interestingly, this is one of the few wines made by Guffens from purchased juice, not grapes. I cannot reveal the name of the negociant that sold Guffens this batch of Le Montrachet, but it is ironic that Verget's 1992 Le Montrachet is significantly better than the same wine from the negociant. Why? The negociant blocks the malolactic fermentation, does no lees contact, racks the wine three times, and then sterile filters it prior to bottling. Guffens' asked that all the lees be given to him, and was able to complete the malolactic fermentation. He kept the wine in contact with the lees, did not fine it, racked it only once, and bottled it with a rough filter designed only to extract fruit flies. As the notes attest, Guffens is one of France's greatest white winemakers. The quality of his wines in so-so years such as 1991 shames many famous names. In 1992 the overall quality level is extraordinary.These are truly the wines of a genius. I suspect their quality is so high it will shake-up a lot of white burgundy producers who have been resting on their historical reputations for far too long. The wines of Guffens are proof of the great quality that can be achieved without compromise. For that, consumers who care should be thankful. Bravo to Jean-Marie Guffens-Heynen!A Peter Vezan Selection, various importers, including Estate Wines, San Rafael, CA, Ideal Wines & Spirits, Medford, MA, and Barrique Wine Co., Chicago, IL.
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