Vaeni Naoussa Damascenos

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The 2005 Damascenos (sometimes spelled "Damaskinos" in other places) is the co-op's oak aged "fume" Xinomavro, which it calls a wine "that towards the end of its cask-ageing process is stored in small fully smoked, French oak casks." It spent 18 months in "toast #2" barrels and inevitably generates a lot of talk about the oak issues. Well, it certainly has a very different demeanor than, say, the winery's 2004 Grande Reserve or 2006 regular Naoussa reviewed this issue. It is not as pure, not as earthy. That said, the oak has had some time to integrate. The wine shows nothing like that drenched-in-vanilla overoaked nuance young, oaky wines can have. By the standards of many regions, the oak treatment is unremarkable. The wine's natural acidity and tannins easily cut through it and the oak becomes part of the whole, not the whole story. This is a little different, probably not a purist's view of Xinomavro, but it is nicely done and by no means over-the-top or even close to it. Were it not for all the talk of the oak process, I don't think there would be much focus on it. There were 2,500 cases produced. Drink now-2025. Vaeni Naoussa is a co-op that buys a large part of the Naoussa region's production. Its specialty has traditionally been Xinomavro, of course, the appellation's signature grape. Importer: Stellar Importing Co., Whitestone, NY; tel. (718) 352-1180

The 2004 DAMASCENOS (a.k.a. Damaskinos) is all Xinomavro --“fume,” oak-aged. This somewhat atypical bottling is oak softened, and the texture is quite velvety. Despite all the back and forth one sees on this wine’s oak treatment, it is hardly a parody of Xinomavro. This has excellent structure, intense and tannin on the finish and good acidity. The longer it aired out, the more interesting it became. This seems a lot more aggressive and more rustic than the recently reviewed 2003 Damascenos, which fans of typical Xinomavro may actually appreciate. That is a function, to some extent, of it being a year young, but this has some extra power. I found myself appreciating it more for its potential than its current attractiveness, but this has some upside. Drink 2011-2020. Vaeni Naoussa is a co-op that takes a large part of the Naoussa region’s production. Its focus has traditionally been on Xinomavro, making both white wines (from red grapes) and reds.Importer: Stellar Importing Co., Whitestone, N.Y.; tel: (718) 352-1180

The 2003 DAMASCENOS (a.k.a. Damaskinos) is all Xinomavro, meant to be a somewhat more individualistic product in Vaeni’s lineup, ripe and oak-aged and somewhat sedate and modern-styled for Xinomavro. It is quite elegant while still reasonably fresh. Only 12.7% alcohol, it is bright and light, with some nice flavors, the oak not being overly intrusive at this point in its life. Tannins certainly pop out with aeration, but this is a wine that controls Xinomavro’s rustic tendencies. Of the Vaeni red lineup reviewed this issue, it is probably does the best job of retaining some youthful freshness in the fruit while still providing reasonable structure. It shows a bit more mature, with some tertiary hints, after extended aeration. Overall, this has some charm. Drink now-2013. Vaeni Naoussa is a co-op that takes a large part of the Naoussa region’s production. Its focus has traditionally been on Xinomavro, making both white wines (from red grapes) and reds.Importer: Stellar Importing Co., Whitestone, N.Y.; tel: (718) 352-1180