The 2007 Valpolicella Superiore Terra del Cereolo is an oak-driven blend of Covina, Corvinone, Rondinella and Oseleta. It delivers earthy tones of wet earth and button mushrooms along with loads of pretty dried cherry, prune and raisin. The build is bulky and layered in the mouth. Drink 2014-2019. Importers: Caroline Debbane Selections, www.cd-selections.com; Selected Estates of Europe, www.selectedestates.com; Simioni Imports, www.simioniimports.com

The 2005 Valpolicella Superiore Terre del Cereolo reveals a touch more clarity and precision in its aromas followed by a hefty blast of fruit, smoke and new leather. There is plenty of intensity, even if the wine lacks some of the sheer harmony of the San Colombano. Fresh, floral notes move through to the vibrant finish. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2013. Trabucchi makes intense, fruit-forward wines from biologically-certified vineyards in Illasi, one of the valleys that emerges on the eastern side of the Valpolicella zone. Importer: Selected Estates of Europe, Mamaroneck, NY; tel. (914) 698-7202

The 2004 Valpolicella Superiore Terre del Cereolo is a deeply-colored wine packed with black cherries, wild herbs, earthiness and tobacco. This is an imposing, super-concentrated style of Valpolicella that could use a touch more elegance. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2014. Trabucchi makes some of the most intense, rich wines in Veneto. Importer: Selected Estates of Europe, Mamaroneck, NY; tel. (914) 698-7202