Lemon, lime, apple blossom, and pungent herbs scent the Minges 2008 Riesling halbtrocken, which essentially presents itself as a dry-tasting, liter-bottled alternative to its trocken sibling. But not only is this a bit more luscious and its citricity more pronounced, it also carries its saline savor more invigoratingly into the finish, inducing compulsive salivation as well as lip smacking. A versatile and terrific value, I would plan to enjoy it in the next 2-3 years. Many of this year’s Minges wines were allowed to ferment spontaneously. “It stopped fermenting where it wanted to,” remarked Theo Minges, about one of several wines that did not go dry as they probably would have with cultured yeasts, adding that he’s being influenced now by the success of his exercise in wine-making passivity known as the “Froschkonig” (for more about which consult my review of that wine in issue 185). Regina Minges was keen to point out that the relatively low alcohol and delicate refreshment achieved in particular at the lower end of the price scale reflects an early November harvest.Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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