Eyrie’s Chardonnays are idiosyncratic, with a distinctive, pungent, tarry note dominating the tight, green apple fruit. The 37-year-old vineyard has unique clones, and winemaker David Lett does a long fermentation sur lie. The result is a tart, citrusy wine with the possibility of aging for quite a long while. ——P.G.(9/1/2003)—— 87