The 2014 Pinot Gris Dundee Hills felt just a little dilute on the nose when I tasted it, not quite getting both hands on the grape variety as I was expecting. The palate is much better with good acidity, light spicy notes mixed with yellow plum, fennel and white pepper, with a crisp and tensile finish. Once the aromatics awaken then this will be a fine and characterful Pinot Gris.

In 1970, David Lett made Pinot Gris for the first time – the first time anywhere in America. This, his 38th and final vintage, runs the flavor gamut from citrus to stone fruit to tropical. There’s a deep straw color, a flash of honey, and a substantial, almost weighty midpalate. Light toast adds further flavor interest to the finish.——P.G.(12/15/2009)—— 91