Absolutely delicious. Although it’s a bit full bodied and heavy for a Pinot Noir, it’s stunningly good, offering wave after wave of berry, cherry, orange peel, spice and oak flavors, with interesting side notes of mushrooms, cola, cocoa and licorice. The California appellation is because the wine is a best barrel blend from Testarossa’s vineyards up and down the state. Drink now–2015.——S.H.(11/1/2011)—— 94

A bit of a letdown after a string of riper, more successful vintages. Feels sharp and somewhat herbal, with a hay or dried wheat edge to the black cherry and rhubarb fruit. Could just be going through a tough period, and might emerge on the other side in 5–6 years.——S.H.(12/1/2010)—— 88

Testarossa reserves their most expensive wines to a best-barrels blend that usually bears a statewide appellation, a practice that is rare if not unique among California wineries. The ’07 Niclaire is vast in currants, rhubarbs, cola and cedar, with sizable but finely meshed tannins, and the tart acidity that marks all of the winery’s 2007 Pinot Noirs. It’s drinkable now, but just barely, so decant. But will benefit from up to six years in the cellar.——S.H.(7/1/2009)—— 94