The 2009 Pinot Noir Rio Vista Vineyard comes across as somewhat compact next to the other 2009s. I don’t find the level of inner sweetness or depth of fruit of the best wines in this lineup. That said, this is a pretty, if simple, Pinot that should drink nicely for the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. I tasted a wide range of wines from Tantara, including a whopping 12 different Pinots. I can certainly understand the appeal of vinifying small lots of fruit from a large number of top sites in the Central Coast, but it must be a huge challenge to properly supervise the growing of fruit in sites that run from Arroyo Grande to the Santa Lucia Highlands. These 2009 Pinots suggest a little more focus on fewer appellations might not be a bad thing.Tel. (805) 938-5051; Fax (805) 938-0036; tantarawinery.com

The 2008 Pinot Noir Rio Vista (also 100% destemmed, but aged in 40% new French oak) is largely from the same clonal material as the Lindsay Vineyard. This dark ruby wine exhibits slightly broader berry fruit, with some pomegranate, spice, underbrush, and foresty notes, and a palate feel that suggests a lean, cool-climate character. Drink it over the next 3-4 years, as this wine is relatively evolved as well. This is a dizzying array of wines, including four Chardonnays and eleven Pinot Noirs. Perhaps it is overkill, but the quality of the wines is very high, and Tantara remains one of the bright, shining spots for these varietals on the Central Coast. Among the four Chardonnays, two are from the Santa Maria Valley, the Dierberg and the Bien Nacido, the Talley-Rincon is from Edna Valley’s Arroyo Grande appellation, and the Brosseau from the limestone soils of Chalone. The Pinot Noirs essentially cover virtually every Central Coast appellation, from the Santa Lucia Highlands in the north to the Santa Maria Valley in the south.Tel. (805) 938-5051; Fax (805) 938-0036

Backward but impressive is the 2007 Pinot Noir Rio Vista Vineyard. No stems were used in this cuvee, which possesses a deep ruby/purple color as well as a big, sweet nose of sassafras, root vegetables, black and red fruits, forest floor, and graphite. Layered, rich, and full-bodied, but very structured, it needs 1-2 years of bottle age, and should last for a decade or more. This is a fascinating, exceptionally high quality group of Pinot Noirs. They tend to range in the mid-14% alcohol levels, with the oak regime generally around 30-60% new. Tantara’s policy with respect to fermenting with stems varies from zero to as much as 20% for the Dierberg, Evelyn, Bien Nacido Old Vine, and Solomon Hills. Production is relatively limited, from a low of under 90 cases for the Bien Nacido Old Vine and Brosseau, to just over 200 cases for some vineyards. The most limited cuvees are the two single vineyard lots of Burt and La Grande Colline, approximately 24 cases of each. Most of these wines, save for a handful of exceptions that are noted, are capable of lasting 8-10 years or more. for a handful of exceptions that are noted, are capable of lasting 8-10 years or more. Kudos to Tantara for a very impressive line-up of Pinots.Tel. (805) 938-5051; Fax (805) 938-0036

The dark plum/ruby-colored 2005 Pinot Noir Rio Vista Vineyard exhibits aromas of sweet cherries and currants along with cola, cloves, spice, and wood. This medium to full-bodied, expressive Pinot should drink well for 5-7 years. Tel. (805) 938-5051; Fax (805) 938-0036