There’s been a lot of griping lately about overly ripe, too-soft, high-alcohol Cabs that cost too much. This Cab is just the opposite. Crisp and structured, with a gritty mouthfeel (in a good sense) and only 13.8% alcohol, it’s bone-dry, with rich flavors of red and black currants. Lovely with a wide range of foods. ——S.H.(11/1/2008)—— 89