This wine recalls the glory days of a decade ago, when there were dozens of delicious California Chardonnays available for under $8. Today this sort of forward, fruity, ripe, round wine is more likely to cost you twice that. Yet here is a creamy, cleanly made wine, showing plump, fresh fruit flavors and a lingering finish. Just 1.9 million cases made.——P.G.(11/15/2001)—— 87