When Petite Sirah is at its best, and this one is, it offers incomparable structure and flavors. Nothing quite like it anywhere, with its inky dark color, big, thick tannins and ripe, exuberant flavors of berries, currants, mocha, leather, tobacco, cedar and peppery spices. What’s especially nice about this bottling is the dryness and moderate alcohol. A superior wine that should age for the better part of a decade. ——S.H.(6/1/2010)—— 93