The 2008 Zinfandel Estate Reserve is the deepest and most complex of these Zinfandels. It shows good concentration and persistence, but ultimately little in the way of varietal definition. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2015. Tel. (707) 942-5310; www.storybookwines.com

This is the most elegant of the winery’s new Zinfandels, although elegant has to be taken in context when it comes to mountain fruit with this intensity and power. It’s a big wine, with potent raspberry, cherry and blackberry fruit. Yet there’s a delicacy to it, even considering the tannins, that’s almost like a Pinot Noir, strange as that sounds. Earns its high score by virtue of this magic. Should age effortlessly throughout the decade.——S.H.(12/31/2011)—— 94

The top wine, but still somewhat closed and needing another 6-12 months of bottle age, is the 2007 Zinfandel Estate Reserve. This is Seps’ 250-case selection of his best stuff. The wine shows more structure, density, and richness, but is not yet exhibiting the charm and seductive power of his Eastern Exposures or Mayacamas Ranch. Deep ruby/plum-colored, with loads of crushed rock and pepper, as well as sweet red fruits such as cherry, boysenberry and black raspberry, it is deep, clean, pure, but slightly tannic and needing some bottle age. It should be an atypical Zinfandel in that it will evolve for 7-10 years. One of the most reliable producers of Zinfandel in Napa, proprietor Jerry Seps continues to produce very elegant Zinfandels that lean more toward wines with a Pinot Noir sensibility than many other Zinfandels.Tel. (707) 942-5310; www.storybookwines.com